“Protect and serve”.

Here is my remix of Lilykill’s awesome Protectron.

I’ve modelled the head internals, modified the arms to make them more game-accurate (at the cost of articulation) and made the head dome thinner, smoother and suitable for MSLA printing.

First off, big thanks for Lilykill for sending me the original files for this model (and for making a start on the head dome for me). It wasn’t quite right in terms of fit, but a slight press/pull in F360 to increase the size has fixed this. I also loaded it into Meshmixer to smooth out the ridges on top. 

The internals were also created in F360 and I’ll admit I got a little carried away in terms of detail; it’s difficult to judge scale when working on a big old PC monitor! 

Again, the arms were created in F360 using the original model as a reference. They’re more game accurate, but don’t have the same movement adjustment as the original STLs.

The dome STL is orientated how I printed it. Medium supports at the bottom and a few lights up top. Remove these supports pre-cure, sand back with fine grit paper and finish with some kind of gloss clear coat (I used Vallejo Polyurethane via an airbrush, but rattle cans may also work).

To attach the dome to the head I found the easiest way was to hold it in place, then use a paintbrush to brush some resin into the seam. Cure with a UV light source (I used a laser pen which caused the resin to harden in seconds). I tried superglue initially, but it was messy and didn’t hold too well.

For the head internals you’ll want to print each part separately, then glue together. Be careful here, they’re very small/delicate parts (one of the antennas has a diameter < .3mm), so light supports are recommended in your slicer software. Superglue, activator and tweezers worked for me when glueing together. If you’re heavy-handed you may struggle a little here.

I can’t remember exactly what orientation I used, but I’d imagine I tilted everything back slightly and placed supports where I could. Remember, the backs of these aren’t visible, so you can go nuts with supports here and not worry about scarring.

For glueing the internals I used an epoxy which gave plenty of time to position the parts before the glue set.

Have fun! If you’ve got questions I’ll do my best to respond. I’d love to see others print this remix.